Very few items of clothing have the power to remain relevant over two centuries, but the Western shirt encapsulates enough romanticism and mysticism to be one of them – plus, the touch of Hollywood never hurts.
In the vast expanse of the Wild West, where rugged landscapes met untamed spirits, a timeless garment weaved its tale through the fabric of history. The Western shirt, born amidst the dust and dreams of the frontier in the early 19th century, captured the essence of an era defined by exploration, adventure, and cultural settlement.
With its roots planted in the soil of the American West, the Western shirt relates the fusion of diverse influences that characterized life on the frontier. It was a garment born of necessity, crafted by hands weathered by the elements and shaped by the spirit of resilience that defined the pioneers of the time.
As the Western border was pushed forward, the named after shirt continued to evolve, its legacy intertwined with the rich tapestry of American folklore. From the dusty trails of cattle drives to the glitz and glamour of Hollywood, it became an enduring symbol of rugged individualism and timeless style.
Today, as we look back on its journey through time, the Western shirt remains an icon, still relevant after over two centuries of existence.
Each stitch seemingly whispering the stories of cowboys and outlaws, pioneers and dreamers, reminding us of the spirit of adventure that still echoes, in our somewhat romantic perception, across the American landscape.
200 Years of History
Before the apparition of American cowboys, there were vaqueros: Spanish cattlemen whose history traces back to the 16th century when Spanish colonizers first arrived in the Americas. Bringing with them their cattle and ranching expertise from the Spanish plains, these early settlers also introduced the traditions and attire associated with their livelihood. Despite the end of Spanish rule over Mexico in 1821, the influence of Spain persisted, along with the legacy of the vaqueros' way of life.
Historical Stop: the Wild West Colonisation
During the 1800s, the United States embraced the doctrine of 'Manifest Destiny', prersenting its expansion as divinely ordained. This ideology justified the annexation of Texas in 1845 and sparked the Mexican-American War, which lasted from 1846 to 1848. The conflict culminated in the Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo, where the United States acquired vast territories from Mexico for $15,000,000. This expansion reshaped the Americas, opening the untamed 'West' into a land of opportunities.
In the newly acquired South West, including California, Americans flocked in search of fortune during the gold rush of the 1850s or claimed land under the Homestead Act of the 1860s. This influx of settlers from the East encountered a region already shaped by the Vaqueros, Spanish-speaking cattlemen who had long worked the land. The Vaqueros shared their knowledge in ranching and cattle driving, contributing to the cultural melting pot that emerged in the South West.
As America kept expanding, the development of the railroad brought connectivity to remote settlements, bridging them with the rest of the country and gradually extending a comfort westward some would call 'civilisation'. This expansion also facilitated the availability of fabrics like cotton and wool to local tailors and craftsmen, who outfitted the new inhabitants of these challenging frontier lands.
Clothing in the West had to be practical and durable to endure the harsh climate. Native Americans had leather buckskin capes and smocks decorated with embroidery, something the early Western fur trappers, hunters, and explorers often adopted too, trading and coexisting with indigenous communities. Vaqueros, or Spanish cattle herders, prefered lightweight cotton or silk shirts, like the Guayaberas, sometimes featuring pleats and embroidery. These shirts typically featured a yoke back panel and front pockets, often paired with a large scarf or draped poncho for added protection.
Characterized by their long tails and slim cut, Western shirts were designed to remain tucked in while horseback riding and to minimize snagging on vegetation. The typical Western shoulder yoke, borrowed from the wooden yokes worn by oxen and horses, provided additional support and protection from the elements, enhancing the shirt's durability and functionality.
From Reality to Fiction
While initially crafted for enduring the rigors of rugged labor, the emergence of the Rodeo and the global fascination with vaudevillian Wild West shows left an indelible mark on the design and aesthetic of Western shirts. This cultural shift introduced a new emphasis on flair and intricate detailing, reshaping the evolution of Western shirt styles.
In the 1880s, following the Mexican-American war and its tales of bravery and heroic battles, Buffalo Bill created his touring Wild West shows. These spectacles showcased the rope-skills and theatrical flair of the Vaqueros and American cowboys who had then learned their techniques. These vaudevillian shows told stories of how the west was won and brought the cowboy out of the range and into the mainstream, transporting audiences into the rugged world of the Wild West, with the glamorous touch of staged productions.
Buffalo Bill's sensational shows created global tours, leaving an indelible mark on popular culture and shaping perceptions of America and its people. These spectacles presented a highly idealized and exaggerated portrayal of the Wild West, free from the constraints of civilized society; a realm of rugged adventure and daring exploits where men and women alike embodied heroism and strength. The shows allowed spectators to cheer for their favorite performers, borrowing a tradition from the Vaqueros inspired by the flamboyant costumes of Spanish bullfighters known as the Traje de luces — or "suit of lights." Ornamented with gold thread and sequins, these dazzling outfits were meant for the matadors to stand out in the arena. Each one was colored and designed specifically for the performer, featuring silk and satin shirts adorned with colorful panels on the shoulders and cuffs, intricate floral embroidery, elongated cuffs, and an abundance of decorative buttons.
During these shows, the iconic cowboy emerged as a symbol of American identity, reshaping societal norms and challenging the notion of urban sophistication with a more rugged, down-to-earth archetype. But the romanticized vision of the Wild West captivated audiences worldwide, leading to the emergence of Dude-Ranches or Guest Ranches by the late 19th century. These establishments offered a nostalgic lens to city dwellers seeking a glimpse of frontier life.
As the tourist industry flourished, ranches adapted to meet the desires of their clientele, giving Western experiences that mirrored the imagery of rodeo shows. Ranch owners embraced the role of cowboy personas, further perpetuating the rough image of the Wild West and its bygone era.
From Script to Screen
By the 1930s, the Dude Ranch business had become a booming industry. Visitors could gear up in Western wear sold in dry-goods stores adapting to the growing demand. Western fashion, once made exclusively for rodeo riders, country singers, and film, expanded into bespoke designs for style-savvy consumers. Pioneering "Rodeo Tailors" like Nathan Turk, Rodeo Ben and Nudie Cohen set up their own shops, adding the distinctive flair of Western design. Each brought unique influences, drawing on their diverse ethnic backgrounds.
Nathan Turk and Rodeo Ben, both originally from Poland, and Nudie Cohen, from Ukraine, infused their work with elements from the richly embroidered motifs of Hungary, Czechoslovakia, Austria, and their native homelands. Their creations attracted musicians, movie stars, and even Dude Ranch enthusiasts eager to adopt this authentic Western style. For the first time, Western wear became a fashion statement in mainstream culture.
Although initially simple, Western stars like Roy Rogers elevated the shirt's flamboyance. Hollywood tailor Nudie transformed cowboy shirts into exotic garments adorned with fringe, rhinestones, and bold patterns. Notably, Elvis Presley's iconic gold lamé tuxedo, designed by Nudie, epitomized this extravagant style.
Hollywood actors like Buck Jones, Bill Hart, and Tom Mix, the leading stars of 1920s silent Westerns, shaped the cinematic image of the cowboy. Tom Mix, known for his extravagant style both on and off screen, was particularly influenced by the Wild West and Rodeo shows, often wearing vibrant colors and patterns, even hand-embroidering floral designs onto his shirts. Though these early Westerns may seem outdated by today’s standards, they set the stage for the Western’s “Golden Age” in 1930s Hollywood, captivating the audience’s fascination with the Wild West for three more decades to come.
Back to Fashion
Larger brands began to take notice of the growing popularity of Western fashion. Companies like Levi's, Pendleton, and Sear joined the trend by introducing Western-inspired "sports" shirts made from wools and gabardines.
In the 1930s, Levi's took a turn, embracing the cowboy as their emblematic figure. Their 1938 catalog, titled 'Dude Ranch Duds,' marked a shift from just supplying workwear and dry goods to reach to a more fashion-focused clientele.
This pivot led to some of Levi's most iconic advertising campaigns, growing their reputation as the American outfitter, although the innovation and rise of Western shirts can be attributed to many others as well.
The war years brought heavy changes worldwide, transforming societies in many ways. Fashion was no exception. The post-war period shifted clothing trends towards a more relaxed style, moving away from the strict formality of the Great Depression and wartime constraints.
This was also a time when Western wear saw a surge in popularity. With the end of material rationing, American industries began to focus on mass production and innovation. Companies jumped at the chance to appeal to a broader market by producing Western-inspired clothing, partnering with notable rodeo tailors like Nudie Cohen and Rodeo Ben to add authenticity.
In 1946, Jack A. Weil founded Rockmount Ranch Wear in Denver, Colorado, with a goal to create a signature Western style for the entire nation. Drawing from traditional rodeo designs, he modernized them using new materials and manufacturing techniques to reach a wider audience.
Jack had long advocated for using snap buttons on shirts, recognizing their practicality and safety. When he approached the Scovill Manufacturing Company in New York, known for their quality snaps, he initially faced resistance. However, his determination impressed a senior manager, and they decided to give his idea a chance.
While there is some debate about who originally came up with the Western snap button, Jack played a key role in making it popular. He transformed the Western shirt market by introducing mass-produced styles and designs that featured his unique touch (along with the snap buttons Jack also trademark the saw tooth pocket and diamond snap shaped button). Notably, Levi’s didn’t release its first snap button shirt until 1959, highlighting Jack’s pioneering influence in Western wear.
The 1950s emerged as the golden era of the cowboy and all things Western. Cowboy aesthetic became deeply adopted by popular culture, with Western wear seamlessly integrated into mainstream fashion. As country singers paved the way for rock 'n' roll, cowboy-themed movies dominated the silver screen, captivating baby boomers worldwide and embedding the cowboy archetype into the collective consciousness.
Music icons like Elvis Presley embraced Western wear, while country legends like Johnny Cash infused it with a rebellious edge, shaping the style and sound of the 1960s. With the decline of formal suits and the rise of denim, leather jackets, and hippie culture, casual attire, particularly the Western shirt, became synonymous with counterculture cool and a certain anti-establishment.
Since the 1960s, the appropriation of western style has been ever-present though-out the music, film, and fashion, leaving an indelible mark on wardrobes worldwide. Whether on the high street or the runway, Western wear continues to influence contemporary style.
Decades later, Hollywood kept influencing the cowboy imagery. The 1980 film Urban Cowboy sparked a resurgence of interest in Western garments, expanding in consequence the variety and quality of clothing available to actual working cowboys.
Another variation is the shield-front shirt, originally worn by U.S. Cavalry soldiers during the American Civil War. It evolved from a red shirt issued to prewar firefighters and featured a blue wool body with yellow piping and brass buttons. This design was introduced by George Armstrong Custer, Army officer and cavalry commander in the American Civil War. The shield-front shirt gained renewed popularity when John Wayne wore it in the movie Fort Apache and was embraced by rockabilly musicians like the Stray Cats.
The Western Shirt Anatomy
The Western shirt is known for its distinctive yoke design on both the front and back. It’s typically made from chambray, denim, or tartan fabric and features long sleeves. Modern versions often include snap pockets, bandana-patterned patches, and decorative fringe. The style originated during the "Wild West" period, which coincided with the late Victorian era, explaining the overlap in fashion influences.
What sets the western shirt apart from conventional shirts are its distinctive features: pointed yokes on both the front and back, longer tails, dual chest pockets with pointed flaps, pearl-snap closures along the front placket, and pearl-snapped cuffs. These design elements are not only ornamental; they serve practical purposes rooted in the shirt's utilitarian origins.
For instance, the reinforced construction ensures durability, while the snug fit prevents snagging on saddle horns and barbed wire. The pockets with flaps secure small items like a tobacco tin during rides.
Over time, the design of Western shirts has evolved, establishing its own unique vocabulary characterized by various elements. While there is considerable diversity within the Western shirt style, some common design elements can be identified:
Dual chest pockets, either with flaps or in a smile pocket version
Pointed yokes on both the front and back
Cuffs featuring either barrel construction with a three-snap closure or shotgun cuffs with a five-snap closure
Snap buttons along the front placket, cuffs, and pockets
Piping to accentuate the yoke design, front placket, cuffs, and collars
It's important to note that not all of these elements may be present simultaneously on a Western shirt. For example, smile pockets, piping, and shotgun cuffs typically coexist, while the flap-chest-pocket configuration usually pairs with barrel cuffs and rarely includes piping features.
DUEL CHEST POCKETS
Steve Weil, founder of Rockmount Ranch Wear Mfg. Co., best described the significance of pockets in Western shirts when he wrote:
“Pockets in western shirts are like the grill on a car: they define the Western shirt more than any other element”.*
This is why the classification of Western shirts often revolves around the type of pocket they feature.
In general, Western shirt pockets can be categorized into two main types:
1) the snapped flap pocket, and 2) the smile pocket version. In addition there is the Bib-front shirt which has no pockets.
The flap pocket allowed cowboys to store their belongings safely during riding and roping activities. The slanted angle of the smile pocket allowed for easy access, while reinforced ends, often embellished with decorative embroidery, provided durability to withstand tearing.
*Steve Weil, Rockmount Ranch Wear Mfg., “Western Shirt: A Classic American Fashion”
Flap pockets come in a variety of styles, from single-point to sawtooth or slanted flap pockets, each chosen meainly for aesthetic. As the name suggests, they feature a flap that covers the opening of a patch pocket to prevent items from falling out.
The single-point pocket, with the point positioned at the center, is the most prevalent type of Western shirt pocket.
The sawtooth pocket derives its name from the two points resembling a "W" shape and can be found with either round or diamond snaps.
The slanted pocket version features cut-off corners on both flaps and patch pockets, giving it a distinctive appearance.
"Smile" pockets hang on the inside of the shirt, similar to front pockets on pants, possibly originating from pant design. They usually requiere more work and therefore more expensive to produce. The construction involves multiple operations, including creating a pocket pouch, sewing it onto the inside of the shirt after slitting the front, and finishing the seams. They may feature piping, embroidered arrow points, or sewn-on tabs, and come in a wide range of shapes.
POINTED YOKES
“…A major distinguishing characteristic from conventional shirts is the curved stylized yoke down the front and back, that defines a shirt as being western.”*
The word yoke is a Western term, derived from the wooden harness worn by oxen to pull the wagons. They are an additional layer of fabric sewn along the seams over the body, adding both style and functionality. Unlike the straight stitching commonly seen in traditional shirts, Western yokes have curved, stylized contours that often ends in one or more pointed ends.
From a design perspective, yokes serve to accentuate broad shoulders. Practically, they may have evolved from the cowboy practice of wearing scarves for added protection against the elements. Some cowboys even had scarves stitched onto their shirts to shield themselves from rain and provide insulation from the sun or cold.
Another theory suggests that the concept of yokes in Western shirts traces back to the leather capes worn by Native Americans, which gradually transformed into the Western yoke seen today.
Yokes come in a myriad of shapes and styles. Some feature curved and scalloped designs, while others simpler, straight lines. Front yokes typically sport a single-point V shape, while back yokes are often curved, occasionally extending into triple-point configurations. Piping or cording may be used to outline the yoke, adding visual feature and flair.
Interestingly, many elaborately embroidered shirts don't have front yokes to allow more space for intricate designs. Additionally, front yokes are uncommon in bib-front shirts, where coverage takes over decorative detailing.
CUFFS
Onother of the key features of Western shirts is the multiple snap button closures found on the cuffs, along with the sleeve placket. These cuffs are typically longer and tighter fitting to reduce the risk of snagging during active work.
In Western shirts, cuffs generally fall into two main categories: the classic barrel cuff with a three-snap closure, and shotgun cuffs with a five-snap closure.
The variety of cuff designs is wide, much like the pocket variations.
BUTTONS/SNAPS
If snapped fronts and cuffs now distinguish Western Shirts from other ones we explained above that snap buttons weren't incorporated into Western Shirts until the late 1930s or early 40s.
Before this period, Western Shirts typically featured simple sew-through buttons, similar to those found on conventional shirts, although they tended to be larger for pre-1930s Western Shirts.
Around the 1930s, shank buttons began to be used, which visually resemble the snap buttons we're familiar with today. Most of these were made of Bakelite (a hard resin) or natural shell and featured a domed shape with a sew-through shank. However, shank buttons fell out of use by the early 1950s, making way for snaps.
Snap buttons brought practical advantages, serving as a breakaway feature that releases if the shirt gets caught on objects like fences or saddle horns. They also eliminated the need for cowboys to be skilled in sewing to replace lost buttons. Most importantly, snaps added a distinct look, and a distinct look was what cowboys wanted to differentiate themselves from city slickers.
Example of the shank buttons used for early western shirts before being replaced by the “pearl” snap button we know today
During World War II, snap buttons were scarce, leading Western shirts to be crafted with shank or regular buttons instead. The first snaps were open-ring type similar to contemporary diaper snaps. Following these, flat, round enamel snaps were introduced, initially designed for use on gloves and manufactured by the Scovill Company. These enamel snaps became the first widely used snaps for commercially produced shirts, emerging in various colors that could be matched with the shirt. Throughout the 1940s and 50s, numerous brands incorporated them into their shirt designs.
Example of the enamel snap buttons as precursor to the “pearl” snap we know today as being staple of the Western shirt.
When discussing snaps, pearl snaps typically come to mind. Made from genuine mother-of-pearl found in oyster and abalone shells, shell buttons have been on clothing for centuries and remain popular today.
The "pearl" snap, derived from pearl buttons, emerged commercially shortly after World War II. Known for their beautiful and unique color and luster, real shell snaps had a drawback: they were prone to cracking under the pressure of laundering and heavy usage.
To address this issue, synthetic poly-top snaps were introduced in the early 1950s as a durable alternative to natural shell snaps. Despite being commonly referred to as "pearl" snaps, this is technically inaccurate.
Initially appearing as round snaps, they soon diversified in shape and color. By the late 1940s, hexagonal-shaped snaps with nickel or gilt rims became available, followed by diamond-shaped snaps with similar rims. After round snaps, diamond-shaped snaps became the second most used type.
FIT
Originally, Western shirts had distinguished form-fitting nature. Unlike the boxy, Victorian-era men's shirts prevalent until the 1920s, Western shirts hugged the slim physique, offering a tailored look. This snug fit wasn't just about aesthetics; it served a practical purpose for those engaging in active work, reducing the risk of snags and tears. The fit became a defining feature of Western shirts, shaping the entire garment.
For over fifty years, neck and sleeve sizing dominated the Western shirt market, with fitted shirts available in more than twenty sizes based on these measurements. However, this sizing method has has largely been replaced by the Small-Medium-Large (S-M-L) system, which allows for mass production and inventory management at wholesale and retail levels. Additionally, it aligns better with international markets, where inch-based sizing is less common.
Women's Western shirts followed the conventional form-fitting trend, often mirroring men's designs and fabrics. "His 'n' hers" matching shirts became a significant selling point, although sales of women's Western shirts historically lagged behind men's. However, since the Urban Cowboy trend, mainstream fashion has influenced women's Western shirts, with designers incorporating elements from broader fashion trends.
Fashion is by nature cyclical and so is fit. While slim-fitting neck and sleeve sizing dominated until the late 1980s, a shift towards a more relaxed fit emerged as Western wear consumers aged. This looser fit accommodated heavier builds, providing forgiveness and concealing excess weight.
The information provided above draws heavily from the comprehensive book "Western Shirt: A Classic American Fashion" by Steve Weil from Rockmount Ranch Wear Mfg. This book is widely regarded as the most thorough exploration of the Western shirt and its rich history. For readers interested in exploring deeper into this subject, we highly recommend consulting this authoritative resource.
Bauer's Touch: the Bespoke Western Shirt
Rooted in the spirit of the American West, this shirt blends rugged charm with contemporary sophistication. It’s a versatile and timeless piece.
Designed with care, this shirt fits just right and works effortlessly with both formal and casual jackets. Made from high-quality denim, it reflects A.W. Bauer's commitment to craftsmanship, offering a blend of durability and classic style, a must-have for any one who seeks for versatility in his wardrobe.
J.U
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